Consider these different
reports from a buoy 600 miles offshore:
•10 feet by 6
seconds
•
•7 feet by 18 seconds
The
first wave is very steep and was generated just beyond the buoy.It has much flattening to do and will
likely hit the shore as a 6 foot by 11 second wave.
The
second wave has already done all its flattening out and was likely generated
may miles to the west of the buoy.It
will hit the coast with very little change to its height and period.
